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Notes:
Grumpy Old Man Before You Judgeme Please Shirt
While the black suit characterises men’s clothing in the Paris of the nineteenth century, this striking daguerreotype showing the author of La Comédie Humaine in 1842 is a rare instance of a writer captured in such unkempt clothing. It is on a par with Rodin’s sculpture of Balzac in his dressing gown. Both images, which play with the notion of outside and inside, public and private, also foreground Balzac ‘s intense and exhausting activity. Balzac poses not as a bourgeois or an aristocrat, but neither is he a manual worker: the white dress shirt here becomes the uniform of the writer.Modern IndustriousnessThe phrase ‘white collar’ only appears later, in the early 20th century, in order to differentiate clerical workers from factory workers wearing ‘blue-collarshirts’. These phrases show the extent to which the white shirt is contemporary with the intensive industrialisation and bureaucratisation of the western world in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The connotation of work never ceases to exist, but in different manifestations: The white shirt, in other words, denotes, often in unspoken ways, different kinds of work throughout the twentieth century.
Grumpy Old Man Before You Judgeme Please Shirt
With the greater similarity of men and women’s wear and with female employment becoming commonplace in the years during and following the First World War, the shirt, in its feminine incarnation of the blouse becomes a wardrobe staple for European women, worn with a skirt suit.Emancipation through professional activity is one of the connotations of the white shirt as it is picked up by Hollywood in the 1920s. An attribute of the working girl, the egalitarian aspect of the white shirt becomes prevalent when it is adopted by some of the stars that privilege a masculine/feminine look: primarily Louise Brooks, Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn. The modernity of Brooks is clear from a juxtaposition of her portrait with a portrait of architect and designer Eileen Gray taken around the same period.
