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Second Amendment 01d No.2 Brand Shirt
Fashion’s desire to go ‘back to basics’ periodically returns in times of crisis. Is it a surprise then that the white shirt, “the ultimate wardrobe staple” as magazine Elle called it in 2014, is currently enjoying a comeback, one of many? It is tempting to ask whether this might be a sign of conservatism? Or are there other reasons for this periodic return? And which values does it embody, what history does it reworkFragments of a HistoryIn its different incarnations throughout antiquity (the Egyptian kalasaris, the Greek chiton, the Roman tunica manicata) the shirt is a unisex undergarment. Over time it becomes gender-specific and more sophisticated. In the early sixteenth century, the shirt lengthens along the arms and the neck to create collars and cuffs, and these grow in importance and sophistication in the European Renaissance and the Dutch Golden Age. Until the nineteenth century, the shirt is mainly an undergarment, for men and women, and the fineness of the cotton along with the addition of lace trimmings, which are visible under dresses and suits, make it more precious. Whiteness denotes wealth, probity, and respectability, although these characteristics are somewhat challenged by Marie-Antoinette’s pioneering, in 1779, of what will quickly be called the ‘chemise à la reine’. Here, the undergarment becomes a simple cotton dress worn with a colourful silk sash around the waist, and a minimum of ruffles. It anticipates the neo-classical Empire style of clothing of the Napoleonic era and the white dresses that look back towards Roman antiquity. The chemise à la reine is an important garment in that it transgresses the boundaries of the private and the public, by turning underwear into outerwear.
Second Amendment 01d No.2 Brand Shirt
Modern IndustriousnessThe phrase ‘white collar’ only appears later, in the early 20th century, in order to differentiate clerical workers from factory workers wearing ‘blue-collar shirts’. These phrases show the extent to which the white shirt is contemporary with the intensive industrialisation and bureaucratisation of the western world in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The connotation of work never ceases to exist, but in different manifestations: The white shirt, in other words, denotes, often in unspoken ways, different kinds of work throughout the twentieth century.
